Eastern Anatolia
Ani
The haunting ruins of a medieval Armenian capital — the "City of 1,001 Churches" — scattered across a grassy steppe on the very edge of Türkiye. A thousand years ago it rivalled Constantinople; today you may have it almost to yourself.
- Where
- 45 km from Kars, Northeast
- Best time
- May–Sep; winter is stark but beautiful
- Getting there
- 45 km east of Kars (KSY airport, flights from Istanbul and Ankara); taxis and small tours make the run, or drive the empty steppe roads yourself.
- Eat & drink
- Kars is Türkiye's cheese capital — aged gravyer, honey from mountain meadows, and goose roasted the local way in winter.
- Tip
- Allow at least half a day and wear good shoes — the site is vast. Kars is famous for honey and gravyer cheese.
The story
Around the year 1000, Ani held perhaps 100,000 people and traded on the Silk Road as an equal of Constantinople and Cairo. Capital of the Bagratid Armenian kingdom, it was so studded with sanctuaries that chroniclers called it the City of 1,001 Churches. Then came conquest — Byzantine, Seljuk, Mongol — an earthquake in 1319, shifting trade routes, and finally silence. What remains stands alone on a grass plateau ringed by the Akhurian river gorge, on the very border with Armenia.
You wander from ruin to ruin with skylarks for company: the cathedral whose architect also repaired Hagia Sophia's dome, the round church of St Gregory frescoed floor to ceiling, a Seljuk palace, a mosque with a view over the gorge, fragments of a 1,600-year-old bridge. Few places in the world feel so charged with vanished greatness. Take water, sun cover and at least half a day; combine it with Kars' Baltic-style stone architecture and famous honey-and-cheese breakfasts.
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